Milan
Our trip started in Milan where we stayed at the glorious
Four Seasons Hotel. A beautifully restored 15th–century convent with
only 118 rooms and suites, it has a comfortable, intimate yet stylish feel. Right
in the heart of the shopping district with its famous couture houses and the
financial district it is right on the exclusive Via Gesù between Via Montenapoleone
and Via della Spiga.
Milan is very pedestrian friendly and the historic centre easily accessed on
foot. The city pivots on the Piazza del Duomo and it is only a five– to
ten–minute walk to most of the important museums, sights, designer, antiques
and gourmet shops. Even if you can’t go to a performance in La Scala, you
MUST go and visit. It is open for a small fee, full of opera memorabilia and
well worth the visit.
The restaurant next door Ristorante Teatro alla
Scala, il Marchesino at via Filo–drammatici, 2 and Piazza della Scala.
+39–02–72094338
ilmarchesino.it is definitely a dinner venue with a legendary display kitchen
and lots of marble, Corinthian pillars and opera admirers sitting in plush red
seats, reminiscent of those in the theatre itself. The signature dish of osso
bucco with risotto Milanese sits beside elegant contemporary interpretations
of other Milanese classics. It only opened earlier this year, an addition to
the culinary dynasty of the almost 80 year old Gualtiero Marchesi. He was the
first Italian chef to achieve 3 Michelin stars and was listed by time magazine
as one of the 15 top chefs in the world.
There is also a cafeteria at the front, which is open daily from 7.30am with an informal menu. On the topic of cafes, remember in Italy if you stand at the counter and down your coffee it costs much less than if you sit at a table.
images © copyright Ristorante
Teatro alla Scala, il Marchesino 2008
Top kitchen theatre, bottom
left dining room, bottom right Osso Bucco
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Lake Como and Villa D’Este Villa D’Este, (Via Regina, 40 – 22012 Cernobbio. Tel. +39 031.3481 Fax +39 031.348844
www.villadeste.it
In 1875 Franz Liszt said “When you write about two happy lovers, let the
story be set on the banks of Lake Como.” and Shelley, “This lake
exceeds anything I ever beheld in beauty,” while Longfellow in his poem
on Lake Como wrote, “I ask myself is this a dream? Will it vanish into
air?”. Lake Como, a narrow 50 k long lake that looks like an inverted ’Y’ has
always been a retreat for artists and writers. More recently George Clooney put
it back in the spotlight in 2002 when he bought a house here.
We couldn’t resist going back to Villa D’Este the iconic hotel idyllically
situated right on Lake Como, for a day trip to see one of the world’s great
ladies, Jean Salvadore who has overseen PR here as long as anyone can remember.
Trains run every hour from Milan to Como. Best to take the one from Milano Centrale
as it only takes 30 minutes and it is only a 5 minute walk down into the centre
of Como. The other train from Statzione Ferrovie takes an hour but goes into
Como. The cost is only 16 Euro return in a first class carriage. Then it is possible
to catch either a taxi or ferry to Cernobbio. Villa d’Este is one of the
world’s great hotels, a former 16th century princely residence, is surrounded
by 25 acres of park. It has all the luxury and magnificence of a bygone era,
though discreetly updated.
We stayed here last year and became firm friends with Jean and so went for lunch, co–incidentally the day after my birthday so we celebrated. The chef Luciano Parolari is famous for his risotto, having been making it here for over 40 years, so naturally this is what we ate. He has since sent me the recipe for Risotto alla Milanese with Artichokes which I am sharing with you. Note though that I would add half a cup of white wine and evaporate that off before I added the stock. A lovely day as you can see from the photos.
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Milanese Risotto
Recipe by Luciano Parolari Executive Chef Villa d’Este
serves 4
ingredients
6 cups of chicken stock
1 tablespoon Extra Virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely shopped
2 pieces of beef marrow, optional
2 cups of Carnaroli rice
quarter teaspoon of saffron threads
2 tablespoons butter
6 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
salt and freshly ground black pepper
artichoke garnish — see right
A note of curiosity
According to legend, in 1574 a painter working on the construction of the Milan
Duomo dropped, intentionally or by mistake, some saffron (in those days only
used to mix colours), into his risotto lunch, creating what is now the quintessential
and classic risotto.
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method
Bring stock to the boil in a medium saucepan, then reduce the heat and keep at a bare simmer. Warm the olive oil in a large, heavy–based saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and beef marrow and cook stirring until the onion is softened and translucent — about three minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until every grain is coated with oil — about three minutes.
Add one cup of stock and stir until the liquid is absorbed before adding more
stock, then continue adding stock at about a half cup at a time, always stirring
frequently before adding more stock. When half of the stock has been added, add
the saffron and continue to add stock until the rice is just tender and creamy
but still al dente — approximately 15 to 20 minutes. There
may be some stock left over.
remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter, Parmesan cheese and salt
and pepper to taste. Let the risotto rest for two to three minutes to absorb
the full colour of the saffron; it should have a strong yellow colour. Serve
on individual plates with additional parmesan cheese on the side.
Artichoke garnish for the risotto
for four servings you need six artichokes
Set up a bowl of water heavily acidulated with fresh lemon juice to stop the artichokes from discolouring). Working one at a time and retaining only the heart, discard the tough outer leaves and clean the inside. Cut them in very thin slices and put them into the prepared water. In a pan over medium heat, melt half a tablespoon of butter with a tablespoon of olive oil. Add the artichokes and sauté until crispy. Divide over the top of the risotto and sprinkle with parsley.
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France and Chateau La Lagune
There were many highlights to the French leg of our trip, but a visit to Chateau La Lagune was fascinating.
It is a 3rd Growth Bordeaux chateau and is actually the first Classified Growth
chateau outside of the city of Bordeaux – about a 30 minute car trip. About
45 years ago it was purchased by Champagne Ayala and ownership changed hands
a few times since then. The current owner is a M. Frey a very successful property
developer (and a Champenoise who now lives in Switzerland). It was M.Frey who
sold Champagne Ayala to Bollinger in early 2005. At the same time he purchased
Paul Jaboulet and Aine in the Rhone and also increased his stake in Champagne
Billecart–Salmon.
He has invested considerably in Chateau La Lagune and it is quite beautiful.
The thing that however has excited the French media is the change in winemaker
at Chateau La Lagune and at Paul Jaboulet. M.Frey’s daughter Caroline has
been appointed winemaker at both La Lagune and Jaboulet and has now completed
a few vintages at both (2004 at La Lagune was her first there and 2007 at Paul
Jaboulet was her initial vintage there in the Rhone). Caroline was dux of Bordeaux
University’s wine making school and is exceptionally talented and has engendered
much publicity about how Bordeaux wines are now being very much influenced by
the younger generation. It also helps that she is now still only 30 and beautiful
and was also a member of France’s equestrian teams. Hers is a very >
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  My
gorgeous daughter Lucy, my friend John and me in France
interesting story and you can read and see more at the Chateau La Lagune
web site www.chateau–lalagune.com
It was an amazing visit only a week after vintage had started and the winery
now harnesses the best of tradition and technology. >
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Traditional grape varieties
from the area of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot are hand–picked
and hand sorted, mechanically de–stemmed, gently crushed in a screw crusher
and then use the force of gravity to get the juice into tanks in a super
modern, immaculately clean winery.
We had lunch in the Chateau, the entrée being an unusual dish of salad topped
with a brioche–crumbed, deep–fried egg which was still soft in the
middle. I obtained the recipe from the chef – in French! Well undaunted I ensured
my French translation was good enough with a more accomplished friend, tested
the recipe and then cooked it on Mornings with Kerri–Anne. Go to the recipe
below. fin |
Boiled eggs in Brioche crumbs or oeuf en coque de brioche
This is a recipe from chef Florian at Chateau La Lagune in the Bordeaux area of France.
Serves 2
Preparation — 10 mins
Cooking — 1 – 2 mins
ingredients
3 eggs, 2 for boiling and one for crumbing
Oil for deep–frying
plain flour
1 small brioche or 2 slices from brioche loaf
Salad
half cup broccoli florets
mixed lettuce leaves
1 tomato, diced
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
dressing
1 teaspoon balsamic glaze
1 tablespoon Extra Virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
method
Soft boil the two eggs for three and a half to four minutes, depending on size.
After cooking refresh them in cold water immediately. It is important that the yolk is still liquid. Shell them and put them into the fridge and chill well.
Place a small brioche or a couple of slices from a loaf in the food processor and process to breadcrumbs.
Beat extra egg with salt and pepper. Roll cold eggs in flour, beaten egg then brioche crumbs. Do this twice with each egg. Set aside.
Plunge broccoli into boiling water for a couple of minutes. Drain and refresh in cold water. When cold, drain again.
Heat oil till very hot. Meanwhile assemble mixed lettuce leaves, diced tomatoes, broccoli flowerets, and toasted pine nuts in individual serving bowls. Combine dressing ingredients and drizzle over salad. Deep–fry the eggs until just golden, only a minute or so and place them in the centre of each salad. Serve immediately.
Cook’s Note: Brioche is a sweet bread. You could substitute fresh breadcrumbs if you chose.
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Stay cool this summer
Sangria
This is a traditional way to make cheap red wine drinkable. Very
popular as an inexpensive drink it’s a great way to water a crowd.
Makes 12 glasses
Preparation — 15 mins (plus standing time)
Cooking — 2 mins
ingredients
quarter cup (60ml) orange juice
quarter cup (55g) caster sugar
1 cinnamon stick
4 whole cloves
1 medium orange, sliced thinly (cut in half crossways if large)
1 medium lemon, sliced thinly (cut in half crossways if large)
750ml red wine
60mls brandy (optional)
3 cups (750ml) soda water or lemonade
method
Place juice, sugar, cinnamon and cloves in a small saucepan over
medium heat, stirring, until sugar is dissolved. Pour over orange and
lemon slices in large bowl or jug, cover, refrigerate for several hours or
overnight.
Remove cloves and cinnamon. Add wine and brandy to the orange mixture.
Just before serving, add soda water or lemonade and ice cubes.
Tip Leave out the brandy if you want to make the sangria less alcoholic.
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